| Abstract [eng] |
Preparation and Usage of “Salix Purpurea “Gracilis” Extract in Manufacture of Cosmetics The use of natural medicines worldwide has increased significantly in recent decades. People are paying more and more attention to the composition of the preparations used, preferring herbal substances that reduce the risk of allergies and other side effects over chemically synthesized ones. One such substances, discussed in this master thesis, is salicin, which is extracted from the local orgin willow bark. Salicin, an alcoholic β-glucoside, has long been known for its anti-inflammatory properties, which are also used in the production of the synthetic drug aspirin. The aim of the research is to analyze the properties of this substance, creating a cosmetic product – serum, which would act as an anti-inflammatory agent in the treatment of skin problems, promote skin cell regeneration and reduce fat secretion on the face, resulting in skin smoothing. Examination of five different willow species revealed the required salicin content in the bark extract of Salix purpurea “Gracilis” by chromatographic analysis. Hyaluronic serum with 15 % Salix purpurea „Gracilis“ was prepared using this extract. The test cosmetic product was distributed to a group of 30 people, half of them used a placebo product and the other half were using the product with the test substance to determine the specific activity of the salicin. After two weeks of using the product, these individuals completed a survey of their skin condition during the study, and the results showed that 75 % of the subjects who used the product with salicin extract had reduced skin rashes, compared skin relief, and had brighter and more hydrated skin. However, 25 % of the subjects, skin problems remained the same. Based on the skin condition of the subjects, it was concluded that the plant serum was more suitable for people with dry skin than for those with particularly oily skin. When asked if people would choose to continue using this product, almost 80 % of those surveyed said that the would agree to include this cosmetic product in their skin care routine. Thus, it can be concluded from the obtained results that natural salicin, due to its anti-inflammatory properties, is suitable for use in skin care products. |
